Her Maj and I went to an illustrated talk on the West Highland Way yesterday evening, given by a well-known speaker and broadcaster in these parts; one Jimmie MacGregor. Having walked the route last summer, it was pleasant to sit back and enjoy seeing some of the views and scenes again without the pouring rain or the midges.
Afterwards, Her Maj asked if we could head south for a drive rather than north back home immediately, so we headed off down the road towards Kilberry and into the wilds of Knapdale.
The road from Loch Fyne to Loch Caolisport climbs gently through woods and across moorland to reach Loch Arrail at 200m before winding down again to sea level through a narrow wooded glen. Instead of heading on around Kilberry, which would have been another hour’s drive, we shot off right on the road to Achahoish and Ellary. This road runs around the head of Loch Caolisport, which divides the Knapdale peninsula into two principle bodies of land. This is rugged and beautiful country and has a very different feel from the land around The Chookery. The tide was nearly at the flood and we parked up the car and walked down to a small natural beach between the land and a rocky ridge running into the loch. This area of the loch is a scallop fishery and the rocks were covered in a wide assortment of shells from molluscs unfortunate enough to be gathered by the local birdlife and taken to table. The sand here is almost black in colour. It was gathering dark and cold, so we didn’t stay long, but it was very peaceful with the gentlest of rippling as the breathless tide moved in to claim its own from the land’s tenancy.